| Location of Khajuraho Temples:
Situated in the heart of Central India, in the state of
Madhya Pradesh, Khajuraho is a fascinating village with a quaint
rural ambience and a rich cultural heritage. The fascinating
temples of Khajuraho, India's unique gift of love to the world,
represent the expression of a highly matured civilization. It is
one of the top tourist places of India. An Airport has been
built in this small village. Tourists with fat pockets but less
time can fly Delhi-Agra-Khajuraho-Delhi in a day! There are a
lot of hotels in the area to stay. A few are run by foreginers.
The shops in Khujaraho sell a lot of handicrafts and some of
them are really good and reasonably priced.
History of Temples:
Khajuraho temples were constructed between 950 and 1050 A.D.
during the reign of Chandel Empire. Khajuraho derives its name
from the Khajur tree (the date palm tree) which can be found in
abundance in the area. These temples are considered the "high
point" of Indian architectural genius in the Medieval period.
Originally there were 85 temples, of which only 22 still
exist. The amazingly short span of 100 years, from 950 AD - 1050
AD, saw the completion of all the temples, in an inspired burst
of creativity. With the wane of the Chandela empire, these
magnificent temples lay neglected, and vulnerable to the ravages
of Nature. It was only in this century, that they were
rediscovered, restored and granted the recognition that they
justly deserve. The murals depict the life and times of the
Chandelas, and celebrate the erotic state of being. They not
only testify to the mastery of the craftsman, but also to the
extraordinary breadth of vision of the Chandela Rajputs under
whose reign, these temples were constructed. Their style of
architecture was also rather peculiar to their times. Each
structure stands on a high masonry platform with a distinct
upward direction to their build, further enhanced by several
vertical projections to simulate the effect of an overall
lightness. The three main compartments are the entrance (ardhamandapa),
assembly hall (mandapa), and the actual sanctum (garbha griha).
The temples are grouped into three geographical divisions :
western, eastern and southern.
The creators of Khajuraho claimed descent from the moon. The
legend that describes the origin of this great dynasty is a
fascinating one : Hemavati, the beautiful young daughter of a
Brahmin priest was seduced by the moon god while bathing in the
Rati one evening. The child born of this union between a mortal
and a god was a son, Chandravarman. Harassed by society, the
unwed mother sought refuge in the dense forest of Central India
where she was both mother and guru to her young son. The boy
grew up to found the great Chandela dynasty. When he was
established as a ruler, he had a dream-visitation from his
mother, who implored him to build temples that would reveal
human passions, and in doing so bring about a realization of the
emptiness of human desire. Chandravarman began the construction
of the first of the temples, successive rulers added to the fast
growing complex.
Yet
another theory is that the erotica of Khajuraho, and indeed of
other temples, had a specific purpose. In those days when boys
lived in hermitages, following the Hindu law of being
"brahmacharis" until they attained manhood, the only way they
could prepare themselves for the worldly role of 'householder'
was through the study of these sculptures and the earthly
passions they depicted.
If the temples of Khajuraho can be said to have a theme, it
is woman. A celebration of woman and her myriad moods and
facets- Writing letters, applying kohl to her eyes, brushing her
hair, dancing with joyous abandon playing with her child. Woman
- innocent, coquettish, smiling - infinitely seductive,
infinitely beautiful. Depicted in a wealth of detail, sharply
etched, sculpted with consummate artistry. The philosophy of the
age dictated the enjoyment of the delights of arth (material
wealth) and kama (sensual pleasures) while performing one's
dharma (duty) as the accepted way of life for the grihastha
(householder). Hence, the powerful combination of the visual and
sensual pleasures combined with the duty attributed to the
worship of the Dieties brings about a powerful transformation of
the body and the soul. To include all of these aspects of life
in one's early years makes it easier to renounce them without
regret or attachment as one moves on to one's next stages of
life toward moksha (liberation).
Location of Khajaraho Temples:
Situated in the heart of Central India, in the state of
Madhya Pradesh, Khajuraho is a fascinating village with a quaint
rural ambience and a rich cultural heritage. The fascinating
temples of Khajuraho, India's unique gift of love to the world,
represent the expression of a highly matured civilization. It is
one of the top tourist places of India. An Airport has been
built in this small village. Tourists with fat pockets but less
time can fly Delhi-Agra-Khajuraho-Delhi in a day! There are a
lot of hotels in the area to stay. A few are run by foreginers.
The shops in Khujaraho sell a lot of handicrafts and some of
them are really good and reasonably priced. Khajuraho Today:
The temples are a world heritage site and belong not just to
India but to the world. The Archeological Survey of India's
dedicated efforts towards their conservation rank them against
the best preserved monuments of this antiquity. Most of the
temples are built of sandstone in varying shades of buff, pink
or pale yellow. They each belong to a different sect, the Shiva,
Vaishnava or Jaina Sects, but are often indistingushable from
one another to the untrained eye. The temples are lofty with
ample walking space separating them. The interior rooms are
inter connected and placed in an East/West line. Each contains
an entrance, a hall, a vestibule and a sanctum. Windows were
added to the larger temples to add a feeling of space and light.
The openings face East with lavishly carved archways. The
interior ceilings are carved with geometrical and floral
designs. The roofs are a series of graded peaks that resemble a
mountain range and in all probability, represent the possibility
of higher levels of spiritual attainment. Erotic scenes
represent a relatively small part of the carvings but sensuous
eroticism prevails throughout all of the sculptures. In general,
lower indulgences appear lower on the temple while the dieties
appear near the top. Most of the statues are about a meter high.
The goddesses and gods represent the many manifestations of the
divine Shakti and Shiva, the female and male principles, the Yin
and the Yang.
The
divine sculptures in these temples, are a tribute to Life
itself, embodying everything that is sublime and spontaneous
about it.. Popularly known as the 10th century temples, they
represent a time frame when Khajuraho art was at its zenith.
Visit to Khajuraho is a unique experience and is exciting for
conservationists, students, environmentalists, culture lovers or
simply those in search of an exotic destination with multiple
attractions.
Laurence Rogerson a tourist from UK says the statues and
carvings cover every inch of every ceiling and wall. The erotic
carvings on the temples at Khajuraho give the place it's fame.
Erotic or not the level of detail is quite magnificent as these
pictures clearly do show. Another tourist from Australia says
"these temples depict scenes from elephant fights, mythical
lions, gods, and erotic couples. In a frieze that seemed to be
an exception a sodomistic scene was depicted where onlookers
hold their hands in front of their eyes in disgust. The erotic
scenes are sort of a 3-D rendering of the Kama Sutra book, a
graphical instruction manual."
One of the Jain temples to the east of the village has a
statue and pictures of a nude man. According to the locals some
of the Jain Pilgrims celebrate there without even a leaf on
them. Pieces of the statues from the temples can be seen
embedded in the houses of the village. Statues were used as
cheap building material for building the roads too.
What To See:
The temples are grouped into three geographical divisions :
western, eastern and southern.
Western Group
The Western group is certainly the best known, because it is
to this group that the largest and most typical Khajuraho temple
belongs : the Kandariya Mahadev. Perfectly symmetrical, it soars
31 km high.
Kandariya Mahadeo: This is the largest, and most
typical Khajuraho temple. There are abput 900 statues. Dedicated
to Lord Shiva, it soars 31 m high. The sanctum enshrines a
lingam, while the main shrine is ornately carved and depicts
various gods, goddesses, apsaras (heavenly maidens) in elaborate
detail. The entrance arch, the massive pillars and ceilings are
adorned with exquisite carvings, that leave the visitor
spellbound. Beyond the archway of the Kandariya Mahadev, lie the
six interior compartments; the portico, main hall, transept,
vestibule, sanctum and ambulatory. The ceilings are particularly
noteworthy and the pillars supporting them have intricately
carved capitals. The transept's outer walls have three
horizontal panels showing deities of the Hindu pantheon, and
groups of lovers, a pageant of sensuousness, vibrantly alive.
Chaunsat Yogini: The oldest surviving temple in the
group (900 A.D.), this is the sole granite temple dedicated to
Goddess Kali. Only 35 of the original 65 cells remain and no
image of Kali has survived : not surprisingly, since this is the
earliest surviving shrine of the group dated to 900 AD. Another
Kali temple, which was originally dedicated to Lord Vishnu, is
the Devi Jagdambe temple.
Chitragupta Temple: Dedicated to the sun-god, Surya,
this temple faces eastwards to the rising sun. The inner sanctum
boasts of an impressive image of the presiding deity - the
majestic sun-god looming 5 feet high, and driving a chariot. The
other group scenes depict royal processions, group dances and
other scenes of sheer luxury, typical of the Chandela
court-life.
Vishwanath
Temple: The temple enshrines a three-headed image of Lord
Brahma. Lions guard the northern entrance to the structure,
while elephants flank the southern flight of steps that lead
upto it. The exteriors are profusely carved, and facing the
shrine is a Nandi Temple with a massive, 6 ft high Nandi bull.
Lakshamana Temple: The lintel over the entrance of
this temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu, shows the holy trinity of
Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva with Goddess Lakshmi, Vishnu's consort.
The sanctum is adorned with a three-headed idol of Vishnu's
incarnations, Narasimha and Varaha. The latter, the boar
incarnation also appears as a nine-feet high statue at the
Varaha Temple.
Matangeshwara Temple: This temple, which happens to be
outside the precincts of the western group, is dedicated to Lord
Shiva. It boasts of an eight feet high lingam. It is still a
place of worship. South of this temple is the open air
Archaeological Museum, which has a beautiful displayed
collection of statues and friezes collected from the area : the
remains of long vanished temples
Eastern Group
Parsavanatha Temple: The largest in the group of three
Jain temples, the Parsavanath image in this temple, was
installed in 1860. The sculptures on the northern wall depict
everyday activity, in awesome detail. A woman sits bent
pensively on a letter, a lovely young girl removes a thorn from
her foot, the master craftsmen of Khajuraho display here their
deep understanding of the trifles that make up a human life.
Within the temple, a throne faces the bull emblem of first
tirthankara, Adinath.
Ghantai Temple: This Jain temple has a frieze
depicting the 16 dreams of Mahavira's mother, and a multi-armed
Jain goddess perched on a winged Garuda.
Adinatha Temple: The last of the Jain temples, is
dedicated to the Jain saint, Adinatha, and is gorgeously adorned
with sculptures of yakshis among others.
The three Hindu temples in this group are the Brahma
temple, which has a four-faced lingam, The Vamana temple
which is embellished with images of ravishing apsaras at
their alluring best; and finally the Javari temple, with
its ornate gateway and lavish carvings. A variety of sensuous
attitudes : languid, provocative, mischievously inviting, give
credibility to the theory that Khajuraho's erotica were meant to
test the devotees who came to worship their gods at the temples.
5 km from the Khajuraho village, lies the Southern Group.
Duladeo Temple: Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the
highlights of this temple are the sensuous images of the
apsaras, and other exquisite sculptures.
Chaturbhuj
Temple: This temple sports a huge, elaborately carved image
of Vishnu in the sanctum
Festivals
Khajuraho Dance Festival -To mark the true spirit of
Khajuraho, a dance festival is held here in March, every year,
wherein, ace artistes of various dance forms participate.
Mahashivaratri (Feb/Mar) - Devotees come in huge numbers
to the Matangeshwar temple.
How to Reach:
By Air A daily Boeing 737 service links Khajuraho with
Delhi, Agra, Varanasi and Kathmandu.
By Rail The nearest railheads are Mahoba (64 km) and
Harpalpur (94 km). Jhansi (175 km) and Satna (117 km) are
convenient railheads for visitors from Delhi, Mumbai, Calcutta,
Chennai, Agra and Varanasi.
By Road Khajuraho is connected by regular bus services
with Mahoba, Harpalpur, Satna, Jhansi, Gwalior, Agra, Jabalpur
and Bhopal.
Best Season September to March.
Around Khajuraho
Benisagar Lake (11 km) - A picnic spot and a dam of
the Khudar river. Ideal for boating and angling.
Ranguan Lake (25 km) - A dam site at the confluence of
the Ken and Simri rivers.
Pandav Waterfall (30 km) - A waterfall on river Ken. The
Pandavas of the Mahabharata are believed to have spent a part of
their exile here.
Ranch Waterfalls (20 km) - Waterfalls on the Ken river,
famous for rock formations.
Rajgarh Palace (25 km) - More than 150 years old, this
palace nestles at the foot of the Manjyagarh hills.
Panna (45 km) - A historic town and capital of the
Bundela kingdom.
Dhubela Museum (64 km) - The museum is located in an old
fort, on the Jhansi-Khajuraho road. It houses the personal
effects of Chhatrasal and other Bundela rulers.
Ajaygarh Fort (80 km) - An old fort, built at a height of
688 metres, and capital of the Chandelas during their decline.
Kalinjar Fort (100 km) - The fort is located on the
Vindhya range, 38 km away from the Atarra Railway station. It
was built during the Gupta period and captured by Shri
Yashovarman, the Chandela king, in the 10th century.
Panna Diamond Mines (56 km) - India's only diamond mines,
located at Majhgawan.
Panna National Park(40 km) - It is spread over 546 sq. km
along the east bank of the river Ken. Dense forest cover, rocky
gorges and waterfalls make for ideal wildlife watching.
Bandhavgarh National Park (237 km)
Lesiure activities - Angling at Benisagar and Ranguan
lake. Permission of the Assistant Director Fisheries Department,
Nowgong, Madhya Pradesh is necessary. Boating facility is
available at Benisagar lake.
Map for areas connecting to Khajuraho

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